In this post, we’ll be traveling to Sweden’s second-largest city, Gothenburg (Göteborg), for a very quick peek at a very vibrant city.
We’ll share with you our brief visit to Haga in the old city and dinner at Dirty Dough. So, my friends, I hope you take a few minutes to read on. It’s a fun trip…
Back in July (last year), after our visit to Ekelund Master Weavers (you can read about it in our last post here), we continued up the west coast of Sweden to Gothenburg for our two-night stay. Gothenburg was once a coastal city dominated by shipyards and maritime commerce but is now the vibrant economic hub of Western Sweden and indeed is our second-largest city.
If you have a minute, the video above gives a lovely quick look at the city.
For our short stay, we chose the Radisson Blu Riverside Hotel located in the hip and hi-tec Lindholmens Science Park area. The hotel is located across the Göta River from the city center, only minutes away by ferry to the city center dock. Our stay here was grand and we’d highly recommend the hotel but, in our mind, it’s best you dine elsewhere.
Haga
For our only full day in Gothenburg, we visited the vibrant Haga area. The Haga was the first designated suburb in Gothenburg, dating back to 1658. Through the years it has been demolished, moved, and restored, but it’s still around. The area is known for its interesting shops, coffee shops, restaurants, and some pretty cool street art.
To get there from our hotel, we strolled down to the ferry dock (about 5 minutes away) and hopped on the ELVY for our quick crossing to the city dock.
From the ferry, it was a short ride on the tram to the Haga district.
It turned out to be a damp and cool summer day, but we knew warm coffee was ahead.
We walked over to Haga Nygata (the walking street) early so as to avoid the crowd that would soon appear. You see we were still under Covid restriction then and although fully vaccinated, still a bit apprehensive about crowds and mingling with folks. Heck, we still are.
The first shop we passed, then backed up to and entered was the famous Telagret Tea Shop.
I love tea shops like this one. So many nicknacks to choose from, not to mention the astounding collection of teas that the owners personally source from areas in Ceylon, India, China, Japan, and South Africa.
The smell of coffee and fresh-baked pastries filled the morning air,
which meant it was time to FIKA!
As mentioned, Haga is famous for its fika cafes, but it’s also world-famous for being the home of the largest Kanelbullar (cinnamon bun) made in Sweden. Yep, what your looking at (above) is the famous Hagabullen. The Hagabullen has been made at the Café Husaren since the 1980s and is still making kids and adults happy today.
Me, I prefer the classic smaller kanelbulle, so if you wish to see what it takes to make up a batch, just click here to visit my Autumn in Skåne and the smell of cinnamon… post.
After our fika, we explored the district where you not only find shops and cafes but also a bit of history, like the Skansen Kronan, which was built from 1687 to 1700. The fortress had 23 cannons, which were protected by 4-5 meter (13-16ft) thick walls. The redoubt was constructed to defend Gothenburg from the Danish, but the cannons were never fired in anger.
At the other end of the district, you’ll find the Hagakyrkan and the church ground. Although it’s a newer church, (built in the mid-1800s) it is still a striking church to view, especially for an old “church explorer” like me. The park-like grounds are lovely as well.
After exploring that morning, we choose to dine at Sjöbaren fish restaurant, where we enjoyed a wonderful lunch dining al fresco as the rain fell upon the canopies above.
After that lovely day, we made our way back to the hotel and as we sat sipping on a glass of wine and looking out our window at the wonderful evening view, we spotted the place for our final night’s dinner.
Yep, there it was, Dirty Dough Pizza Bar, the funkiest little waterfront wood-fired pizza joint and people-watching spot around.
So, what did we have? Pizza, beer, wine, and a grand time. You all know I looooove pizza,
especially homemade pizza, made in our new Onni pizza oven.
From the Onni pizza oven, a broccoli rabe, ’nduja, onion, and fresh buffalo mozzarella stone-baked pizza! My current favorite. YOLO!
As Chloe girl has entered her retirement days she prefers to sleep on the couch until we let her know it’s time to eat or go for a walk….
Well, that’s it for this go-around. I know it’s been a while since I last posted (life happens), but to all of you that stuck with me, thanks from the bottom of my heart. For those of you who are new, welcome.
Hi Ron – it’s great to have you back!
I’ve heard very good things about the Onni pizza oven and your pizza looks the business!
Have you read the hilarious article by Jeffrey Steingarten, where he disconnects the thermostat on his oven, in order to get it hot enough to make a real pizza? As with all his writing, it’s very funny and of course, it went horribly wrong.
MD, my Ooni Koda 16 indeed does all that’s it’s advertised to do. I sometimes wish I had the wood-fired version, but the gas one I have is easier to get up to temp. I’m thinking of sharing some of my successes and failures in a future post.
It’s so strange that you mentioned Jeffrey Steingarten as I just recently started reading “The Man Who Ate Everything”. I’m just at the end of chapter one but will dive back in soon. I don’t remember the pizza story, but I’m sure it’s a hoot.
Thanks for stopping by and having a read.
Good to hear from you – I didn’t think you were “gone” for good! Lovely trip – thanks for the history lesson. So many interesting places to travel. I keep seeing those pizza ovens and would love to have one some time. I’m a big pizza fan too and it’s a lot more fun to make home made 🙂
Hiya Judi, We love to have our pizza-making Sunday lunches. The Onni pizza oven is fantastic, but you have to be on your toes as it only takes about a minute to cook your pizza as the baking stone is at 900 + degrees when you bake.
Thanks for your comment.
Hi Ron, I am so glad to hear from you and read all about
Gothenburg and the delicious pastries. Hopefully I can taste some of them when I am on my Sweden trip from June 13th to June 21 .
I am so glad to hear from you Ron. I hope all is well . I will be in Skàne for my Sweden trip with a group from June 13th to June 21 . If you live nearby maybe we can have some of those delicious Swedish pastries.
Hi Gerlinde, I’m glad to hear you are coming to our neighborhood. I’d love to meet you for a pastry, will you be in Lund during your visit? I’m only about 30 minutes (via train) from there. Let me know via my email (ron (at) lostinapot.com) and I’ll see if we can meet.
Glad to see you back, and thanks for the lovely tour!: 🙂
Hi Ronit, it is indeed good to be back. Thanks for taking the time to have a read…
Hi Ron! You must be feeling good! It’s so nice to travel once again. Love this post and the photos.
Thanks, Mimi. I am feeling much better, but it’s been a journey. It is lovely to get out and about more these days. Thanks for stopping by…
Well, what a lovely surprise to find you in my morning mail ! You had said you were writing a post ages ago . . . great to hear of your ‘doings’ in print and thanks for including Chloe . .Tho’ Halsingborg is well-known to me I never did make it to Gothenburg and your story will be a fun accompaniment to my fika this afternoon Mr Google accompanying it with all the maps ! Am not much of a pizza person but love your topping which may go atop one of my Middle Eastern flatbreads by the morrow ! Do hope you and Eva will be able to get away as planned again soonest – and that you will come to show and tell . . . best . . .
In case you have not already wandered over ? Came back for a second look 24 hours later, and – I LOVE reading menus and deciding what I’d be choosing if ‘there’ at the moment ! Huge fun . . . well I did click on the ‘Dirty Dough Pizza Bar’ . . . if you haven’t DO !! Now I on;t understand about 100 words of Swedish but would not have had any difficulty getting what I wanted . . . what a fun menu ! Comin’ with me for another pick . . . ?
Thanks for having a second look Eha. Dirty Dough is a funky pizza bar and I know you’d enjoy the vibe and food there.
Thanks, Gothenburg is a nice city, but a much more modern city than Stockholm and Lund. Unfortunately, many old Gothenburg buildings were wood structures that fell to time and fire through the centuries.
Old Chloe girl is well into her 10th year now, but hanging in there. Happily, she just passed her annual vet visit with flying colors. She has slowed down quite a bit, but so have I…
Hi Ron, Great to see you back and I really enjoyed reading about and touring Gothenburg, presuming Haga is a Viking word. We watch quite a few Viking shows. Beautiful place and those large and small buns look to die for. I’m envious of your pizza oven, and that stone baked pizza. We make our own too, so delicious. Take care.
Hi Ron, Great to see you back and I really enjoyed reading about and touring Gothenburg, presuming Haga is a Viking word. We watch quite a few Viking shows. Beautiful place and those large and small buns look to die for. I’m envious of your pizza oven, and that stone baked pizza. We make our own too, so delicious. Take care.
Thanks, Pauline!
The name Haga actually refers to the Swedish word hage, which means an enclosed field. If you viewed an old map of Gothenburg you would see that the Haga was inside the outer walls of the city in the old days.
There’s nothing like a fresh Swedish kanelbullar and steaming hot coffee or tea. But, fresh homemade pizza is right up there as well…
Good to see you update the blog, Ron. You have been missed. Haga is a really beautiful city. mmm…that cinnamon bun is a giant!
It’s good to be back Angie! I think I would burst if I eat an entire hagabullar. Thanks for stopping by…
Nice post, happy to hear from you. My grandparents each immigrated from Gothenburg to the US in the late 1890s so I was doubly happy to get a glimpse of the city through your eyes. Thank you.
Hi Sharon, well all the more reason for you to one day visit Gothenburg and Haga. Gothenburg is the gateway to Western Sweden, which in my opinion is the loveliest area in Sweden.
We plan to return at Christmas time so hopefully, you’ll get another peek at the city. Thanks for taking the time to have a read and the comment…
Hey Ron! So excited to see this post pop up in my feed this morning – welcome back! I’ve heard many great things about Gothenburg, and I’m certain I would enjoy exploring the city. I love wandering around European cities – the history and culture just whisks you away! And on a side note, I’m pretty sure I would also love that pizza. Also, that Kanelbullar. 🙂
Thanks David! Gothenburg was once the Detroit (Volvo) of Sweden, but not so much now. Today it’s a thriving international tech area full of wonderful things to experience and taste.
I’m confident you’d love the pizza…
Ron, you’re back! Fantastic. I missed your posts.
Looks like you had a lovely trip. This post and the beauties its shows reminds me that I’ve never actually been to Sweden, believe it or not. It’s definitely on my bucket list and now that I’m about to retire, I should have the time to start ticking off those list items!
PS: That pizza looks like the read deal. Color me impressed. I wouldn’t have expected to find real Neapolitan pizza in that part of the woods.
Congratulations on soon joining the club Frank I retired six years ago and have never looked back and thus far have never run out of things to keep me busy.
Real Neapolitan pizza in Sweden, yes indeed you’d find the Swedish adaptation here. Swedish pizza is always very thin crust and eaten with a knife and fork. Hmmm, I think you’ve given me an idea for a post, Swedish pizza culture…
That Kanelbullar in the picture wold feed 3. Or 4. 🙂 Sounds like a delightful outing. And speaking of delighted, I’m delighted to read a post from you again. Thanks!
Thanks John! The Hagabullar is a big cinnamon bun indeed. Thanks for stopping by and having a read…
So glad to see you back with your beautiful and detailed information for everybody planning to travel north. Love Haga, It’s gamla stan isn’t it ?
It’s nice to be back and nicer still to know there are many readers still with me. Thanks for stopping by…
Glad you are back, doing well, and enjoying life. Your pizza had me drooling, and it’s only breakfast time here. I hope to see more of your fun stories going forward.
Thanks Jas
God well and the creek doesn’t rise I should have some more posts coming down the road. You know, I love pizza for breakfast. Not ice cold but slightly warmed, YUM…
So good to see you out and about! Can’t tell you how much this post made me smile knowing you are well. My word- that Kanelbullar (cinnamon bun) could feed a family of 10 at least. (smiling)
Hi Bobbi, It’s mighty good to still be with you guys. Maybe ten mini Kanelbullar lovers or four normal Kanelbullar lovers and two serious Kanelbullar lovers. One is way too much sugar for anyone…
Hi Ron! Yes, you, your travels, your food, and of course Chloe, have all been greatly missed! Looks like a wonderful trip and somehow my biggest takeaway is that huge cinnamon roll! 😉 Wow! So nice to read this post! ~Valentina
Thanks Valentine, it’s good to have been missed. But, way better to be here. Thanks for stopping by and having a read…
Always!! 🙂
What an interesting journey! I didn’t know anything about Gothenburg – apart from the fact it is the 2nd city of Sweden…. Very nice pictures 🙂
Have a nice day
Thanks and thanks for stopping by…
Really nice to read this piece. Glad you are back to your writing. I am stuck here in the U.S so I enjoy reading about your adventures in Sweden. The land where my grandmother and me were supposed to return to so many years ago. Now old age and this and that are in the way.
Hi Richard, I’m so happy to bring you la ittle peak of Sweden now and then. I totally understand the old age and this and that getting in the way. Thanks for the comment…
Welcome back, Ron, and thanks for the lovely tour. Even though I have traveled to Italy, Mark and I are still very cautious about traveling and dining out. Glad you found some good outdoor dining while you were there. It’s so nice to “hear your voice” again.
PS. The church looks really beautiful — such wonderful architecture! Did you get inside?
Unfortunately, the church had not opened when we were there. It used to be (say 10 years ago) that all churches in Sweden were open from daylight to dark every day for everyone. Now, due to thieves and vandalizing the churches have far fewer opening times. But, if arrangements are made ahead of time or the custodian is on the property, they will always open for you.
David, it’s good to be back and thanks for the encouragement to dive back in.
now that’s a bun! so huge. good to see you back Ron. hope your health is okay now. we have been to sweden for an hour can you believe? years ago we took the ferry across and spent an hour there before heading back to denmark on the ferry. so funny. keep well. i can’t believe that i’ve been retired for 9 years now. it has flown and i’ve never been happier and busier… cheers
sherry
Hi Sherry, I have very fond memories of riding that ferry from Copenhagen to Sweden. But, alas the ferries are gone, replaced by the öresund bridge which links Denmark and Sweden. You can travel over via auto, bus or train.
Take care…
Ron, so glad you are doing better and back posting. You’ve been missed. Thank you for taking us to Gottenburg. A truly lovely tour of an interesting and seemingly diverse city. I’d be in heaven in that tea shop! I’m a tea drinker and have a selection of 4 teas that I switch around for morning tea, then numerous other teas for the rest of the day. Your hotel room with its view was definitely a smart choice, as a hotel can make or break a visit IMO. I’m with you in that hotel restaurants aren’t usually the place to eat in a new city. GREAT choice on the pizza place!!! Sweet picture of Chloe.
Hi MJ, it’s been a delight being able to get back at the keyboard. Gothenburg is indeed a diverse and modern city. I must admit though, it’s a bit too trendy and busy for my taste. I’m more of a small historic town sort of guy.
I do drink tea, mostly in the winter, but we do have a tea drinker in the house. Eva (and I) love to try new teas and visit tea shops. I don’t think we’ve ever been in a tea shop and come out without a purchase in hand.
We do like to be spoiled with a nice hotel room when possible. We would rather have a couple of nights in a nice room with a view, than a week with no view.
Thanks for taking the time to have a read and making a comment…
Ron! So nice to hear from you again! I’m always eager to read about your trips, and the amazing food you find along the way. I’m so envious of the FIKA tradition! Hope you stay well and happy and continue posting from time to time.
Jeff, it’s a pleasure being back. It has warmed my heart knowing that you guys missed my writing. I plan to keep posting, not to a schedule but instead, I’ll write when I feel in the mood and think I have a subject of interest.
Thanks so much for stopping by…
What a lovely surprise to see a post from you, you certainly have been missed by all. Boys and their toys, why am I not surprised to see the new Onni pizza oven sitting next to your Bradley smoker. Your pizza lots very professional.
Thanks, Karen. The Onni pizza oven was a wonderful birthday gift from family and friends. However, it did come with a caveat; if I get another outdoor kitchen toy, one of the existing ones must go. Lucky me, I can’t think of another thing I want out there. But if I did, I know which toy I’d sacrifice.
Take care and thanks for stopping by…
I really enjoyed your post Ron, I am so glad you are able to get out and about. It looks like a lovely holiday. Our trip to Scandinavia has, yet again, been delayed for another year. Sigh. This time due to a fellow travelers bad back. I notice that no one was wearing a mask in any of your pictures. How goes it there with Covid? We are surging again here in California although the strain looks milder.
Hi Liz, it is grand to get out and about again.
Sorry to hear your Scandinavian journey has been postponed, but there’s always next year.
As for the dreaded Covid, we’re doing fairly well over this way. I think, last I looked, we’re at about 86% vaccinated so I guess that’s helping. As for the masks, we actually never had a mandatory mask requirement over here. But, many wore them just as well. We still wear ours when we’re in a crowded situation (which we try to avoid). Our kids in Oregon and Washington booth had covid in the past weeks. Both were vaccinated and had their booster, so it was mild for them. I’ve had my second booster which makes it four covid jabs thus far. I’ll be getting the next one in the fall.
Thanks for stopping by and commenting…
Ron, this is my first time visiting your blog. I love it! Sweden is a beautiful country and worthy of lots of exploration.
During Covid the Omni Pizza Ovens were very popular as more people were learning how to cook, spending more time at home cooking with family. Pizza was very popular.
Thank you for sharing.
Best,
Velva
Hi Velva and welcome to Lost in a Pot.
Here in Sweden pizza and pizzerias are extremely popular. I think every town in Sweden with more than 50 people has a pizzeria. Here in our little hamlet, we have two pizza joints and one Asian takeaway. So, when the backyard pizza oven came to be, Sweden was a natural market. I think OONI has done well in Sweden. But then there’s nothing like a hot homemade stone-cooked pizza on a snowy night (or warm summer day).
Thanks for stopping by and sharing your thoughts…