Sweden’s “Falsterbonäset”, or Falsterbo isthmus is a glorious area with a rich history and vibrant present. A place where Swedes and others come to play, relax, and recharge their batteries.
At the southern tip of the Falsterbonäset, where the Öresund (sound) meets the Baltic Sea one will find the Skanör-Falsterbo area. Then, from Falsterbo one comes to the furthest tip of the peninsula. Here lies a wonderful strand of land rich in marine life called Måkläppen wildlife sanctuary, but more on that in the post.
This will be the first in a series of posts wherein we’ll be sharing with you our last weekend outing prior to beginning our COVID19 self-isolating. We’ll have a look around the area and share our stay at a wonderful old country inn where we had some fantastic meals. Heck, we will even be cooking up our favorite dish from our stay in the upcoming series. So, come on in and have a read and let us introduce you to Sweden’s Southern playground, a special place here in Skåne and home to our new favorite Swedish gästgifvaregård (inn).
Måkläppen wildlife sanctuary
[easy-image-collage id=6512]Appearing like a fishhook at the far southern tip of Falsterbo Peninsula’s lies Måkläppen. The shape, however, is constantly being changed by the wind, waves, and currents. Prior to 1989, Måkläppen was an island, but back then the ever-moving sands formed a sand reef connecting it with the mainland. For a really cool view, click here. You say how did it become a wildlife sanctuary? Well, you see back in 1902 the then Måkläppen Association leased the island so as to prevent the locals from looting the nests in the rich bird habit. Back then, when Måkläppen was still an island it was a very important nesting site for many coastal birds.
So, if you’d like to have a better visit to Måkläppen wildlife sanctuary, just “click below” and the box will drop down and you can have a look.
CLICK HERE
In those days there were many gulls, terns, and eider on the island, but now that Måkläppen is connected to the mainland, nature’s predators have arrived and the numbers of breeding birds have declined.
Not to worry, instead, Måkläppen has become a peninsula of seals. For nine months of the year, gray seals and harbor seals rule over the sandbar. Here they can rest undisturbed and give birth to their young. But Måkläppen is also an important resting place for many migrating birds.
Oh, there is one catch to enjoying the sanctuary, you can only visit from November 1 to January 31. The rest of the year it’s off-limits, to allow the birds and seals to bread and grow in private. There’ a bunch of other rules as well, so be sure and check them prior to a visit.
It is forbidden to visit Måkläppen from February 1 to October 31. Please note that dogs are never allowed on Måkläppen.
If you’re wondering what type of hike it is, it’s rated as easy and is 12 kilometers each way and it’s said to take about 5 hours.
The Baltic grey seal
Image by Rino Sperlbauer for Helsingborgs Dagblad
Aren’t they cute? The Baltic grey seal is the biggest seal species in Sweden. The mature guys come in just over 300 kg (≅ 660 lbs) and the gals weigh in at a mere 150 kg (≅ 330 lbs). If you know your seals, you’ll see that the Baltic grey seal is smaller than its cousins in the waters of the Northern Atlantic coast of North America.
Image by: Andreas Trepte / CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5)
The pup begins life at about 10 kg (22 lbs) but starts packing it on quickly thanks to mom’s very fatty milk. After several weeks those little guys will be up to about 60 kg (≅ 132 lbs). You say, “what does mom (and dad) seal eat?”. Well, they eat about anything that swims or crawls in the Baltic, but their favorites are cod, salmon, and herring. A male Baltic grey seal consumes about 4 to 6% of their body weight or 12 kg (≅ 26 lbs) to 18 kg (≅ 40 lbs) in food a day. That’s a lot of fresh fish so you can see why some fishermen are not fond of them.
Image by: Jörgen Wiklund/imagebank.sweden.se
Near extinction in the Baltic, the Baltic grey seal became protected in 1974. Despite this protected status, the seal population continued to diminish. You see, back then areas of the Baltic contained high levels of environmental toxins which made many of the females infertile. However, the situation has greatly improved with the concentration of toxins now decreased and the seal population increasing. The Southern Baltic sea is believed to have a population of about 7,000 grey seals. Today, the biggest enemy of the seal is entrapment in commercial fishing nets. For some great images of Måkläppen checkout #måkläppen at Instagram.
Did you know a grey seal can remain underwater without breathing for 20 minutes at a time?
There are lots of things to see and experience in the Skanör-Falsterbo area, but first, how about a quick aerial view of the area. It just takes a couple of minutes and worth the view.
The area is also known throughout the world by equestrian fans as the home of the Falsterbo Horse Show. The big event attracts competitors from around the globe with up to a thousand horses competing. Come July of each year the world comes to the isthmus (except this COVID year) for this grand spectacle.
Oh, and the beaches, they are some of the most beautiful shores in the land.
One can walk along the beach, lie in the sun, fish in the surf or go kiteboarding as there’s always a breeze.
If boatings your thing, then this is a grand stop on anyone’s sailing agenda. The marina is full service and has much to offer for the nautical bunch.
On the other hand, if golf is your thing your in luck with two fine courses to test your skills. Both the Falsterbo Golfklubb and Flowmens Golfklubb lie on the shore adjoining the wildlife preserve.
I know, you’ve always wanted to live as the Vikings did, I do. Then a visit to nearby Fotevikens museum, an open-air museum is a must. There you can see, taste and experience how the Vikings lived.
But when the day grows long and you’re in the need of a cozy, comfy inn with fantastic food, there’s but one place to go for your stay and we’ll be taking you there and introducing you to this lovely Swedish inn in our next post.
OK, guys, I couldn’t post this without sharing my annual rapeseed blossom images. Remember last year’s images? It was in our The rapeseed fields of Skåne and a Swedish salad… post in May. This year the blossoms are peaking a couple of weeks early, which is fine by us as they make us smile which is much needed these days. We hope they make you smile too.
Eha Carr says
What a surprise ! I thought I knew Sweden fairly well, even if not always from personal visits, but . . . ! Both the glorious first photo and the ‘happy’ video brought an interesting travel destination to the fore. All I knew were distant past memories of the Falsterbo Horse Show. The nature here looks so different from the rest of green ,leafy Sweden. It will be fun to see how both bed and board are available in normal times. It is lovely to see you back posting, Ron . . . out of a country suffering so much . . . you and Eva also please stay well and hope any tests necessary will prove negative ! And thank you for the photo of the rapeseed field . . . I actually subscribed to your posts eons ago because of the then ones . . .
Ron says
Thanks so much, Eha, I’m happy to hear you enjoyed the first installment. We’ll be getting the next chapter out very soon. It’s good to be back posting, it’s been fun and a bit of a re-education putting this one out. We’re also so glad you liked the rapeseed image. I had you in mind when we went for that walk in the fields last week. Take care my friend and thanks so much for your support.
Alida@mylittleitaliankitchen says
What a beautiful landscape! I would love to visit Sweden one day. I find it fascinating. I think most Northern countries are, they have that kind of mysterous air to them and I would find it very interesting too visiting the Vikings museum!
Ron says
Hi Alida, it is indeed an alluring landscape full of ancient and modern history. I do hope you have a chance to explore Scandinavia, especially the Skanör-Falsterbo area. Thanks so much for stopping by.
2pots2cook says
So glad to see you back with beautiful landscape. This spot is definitely another one to add to my list to visit sooner or later. While awaiting for the next post to discover more history and food I wish you all the best and stay healthy 🙂
Ron says
Thanks for the best wishes, we’ll take all that are offered these days. I’ve always wanted to spend a month in the fall traveling from here deep into Eastern Europe, but that travel dream will have to wait until Eva retires. Be well and stay safe down that way…
David @ Spiced says
I love your description of this region as Sweden’s Southern Playground. That’s a perfect moniker! Starting with Måkläppen, I can totally see the attraction to visit. It looks so remote and desolate…but in a good way. (I’m not sure that makes any sense, but the point is that it looks awesome!) And then the Viking museum/town looks really cool, too. I’ve always been amazed at the way the Vikings managed to master the ocean. I’d love to take a look at some Viking longships! Glad to see you back with a new post, Ron. Hang in there, my friend, and give Chloe extra belly scratches for me! 🙂
Ron says
Thanks, David, yes it makes perfect sense to me. As you can only access Måkläppen for a very brief period during the coldest season of the winter which makes it remote and it is indeed desolate. I can so see you, Lura and especially Robbie enjoying Fotevikens museum.
We’re hanging in there and it’s good to be back at the keyboard. Chloe says thanks for the belly scratches…
John / Kitchen Riffs says
What a fun post! I’ve never been to the Falsterbo isthmus, but I’ve actually been told about it, and in great detail. Back when I used to work (in publishing) I had an author who taught at Lund University. He used to visit that area often, and just loved it. From your pictures it’s really obvious why — great pictures by the way. I wanna visit! 🙂
Ron says
Thanks, John! I’m glad you were familiar with the Falsterbo isthmus and I do believe you guys would enjoy it. Lund University is a wonderful institution. I have to say that, as my lovely wife spent her undergrad years there and it is, in fact, a fine univeristy. She was actually raised in the area and went to high school in Lund as well. We live about twenty minutes from Lund and prior to us self-isolating, we were there weekly.
You should visit once things settle down. It would be a great pre-cruise (from Copenhagen) weekend. Take care…
Marla says
Always happy to see your posts pop up in my inbox! Glad to hear you, Eva and Chloe are well. Take care and looking forward to getting the next installment, hugs!
Ron says
Hi Marla! We’re hoping all is well for you guys too. Can you believe it’s almost been four years since we left Georgetown? I can’t. The next installment is scheduled for May 29th if all goes well. Take care and hugs back to you guys as well.
mimi rippee says
Just beautiful. I thought it was funny that you wrote, “thanks for your patients.” It made me chuckle, even though it’s not funny during a pandemic. you might want tochange it. great music on the video!
Ron says
it is beautiful countryside, Mimi. Thanks for the headup on the typo. Take care over your way and thanks for taking the time to read.
susan says
beautiful country
Ron says
Thanks, Susan!
Karin Anderson says
I feel homesick for Schleswig-Holstein, Denmark or Sweden, when I see the seaside and the blooming rapeseed fields.
Do you know why the US companies that process rapeseed oil changed the name to innocent sounding “canola oil”? I bet you can guess 😉
Stay safe!
Karin
Ron says
Schleswig-Holstein is one of Eva and my favorite parts of Germany, especially Lübeck. We love the Christmas market there. There is a unique beauty to looking out over a rap field and seeing the deep blue of the Baltic. Yep, I didn’t hear them call raps or rapeseed until I started visiting Europe. Take care and thanks for stopping by.
Mad Dog says
Welcome back Ron.
What beautiful beaches!
Ron says
Thanks so much, Mad Dog it is indeed good to be back. The beaches are wonderful and as soon as you make the turn from there and head back up the Baltic they change in color and topography. Take care over that way…
Valentina says
Absolutely stunning. What a wonderful place to add to my travel list. Looking forward to the rest of your series, Ron. Hope you and yours are safe and well! 🙂 ~Valentina
Ron says
Hi Valentina, we doing good over this way. Although it would be nice to be able to go out and eat or even go to the grocier. It is a stunning place. Take care and thanks for stopping by.
Gerlinde says
I was happy to see another post from you in my inbox. What a beautiful island, I was planning on visiting Sweden this year but now it has to wait. Stay safe and healthy!
Ron says
Thanks, Gerlinde it was good to push the publish button once again. Hopefully, you can make the journey over this way next year. You guys stay well and safe…
Healthy World Cuisine says
Hi There Ron! Måkläppen, a diamond in the rough! So glad you were able to make this outing. Bonding with nature is one our favorite was to detox and let our hair down. This place is gorgeous and the beaches are stunning. Rapeseed blooming as far as the eyes can see is beautiful. Can’t wait for the next part of the series. Hope you and your family are staying well. Take Care
Ron says
Howdy Bobbi! Although Sweden has many areas of natural beauty, this area remains one of our favorites. Thanks for the well wishes and yes we’re all fine. You guy stay safe and well over your way…
Susan says
Glad to ‘see’ you back, Ron! What a beautiful place to visit. It seems so calm and serene with those vast stretches of sand. The aerial view is gorgeous. I’m not sure I’d want to live the way the Vikings, did but I’d certainly love to visit that museum 🙂
Ron says
It’s good to be back Susan! You know living in the Viking area was likely a lot calmer than it’s depicted in movies and TV, but I think I’m good living here now. Thanks for taking the time to have a read. Take care…
Frank says
Reminds me a bit of Cape Cod, from the air anyway. Hope you are yours and keeping safe and healthy. Finally warmed up around here so while the beach is off limits, the pool will see some use…
Ron says
Hi Frank, I’ve never been to Cape Cod so it’s interesting to hear the similarities. We’re doing well and trying hard to stay that way. Enjoy that pool and take care.
Liz says
What a beautiful place! Thank you. Our travel plans for this year (and probably next as well) have been cancelled and this may be the only traveling (virtual) we do until the pandemic is under control or there is a vaccine.
We are doing a reset on the places we want to see and this looks promising.
Ron says
It was my pleasure to give you guys this little mini-virtual tour. We’re with you regarding not traveling until we have a vaccine or better times.
Funny that you say you’re doing a reset on travel plans as we did just that over this past weekend. We’ve decided that once we have an all-clear on COVID19 we’re not going to travel by air for a holiday. Instead, we’ll be doing several long weekend trips instead of a big journey. That is except for a bucket driving trip to Eastern Europe, but that’s not scheduled for another few years.
Take care.
Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella says
It looks stunning! You’re really showing me more of Sweden than I have ever seen. I think we only see what we see in films but to see your view is really special. Thanks Ron.
Ron says
Thanks, Lorraine, coming from a global traveler such as yourself makes your comment really special. You guys take care down your way…
David Scott Allen says
Ron – it’s nice to have you back! I have missEd reading your posts… They seem to be the only way to travel these days! This looks like a beautiful area to visit… But I want to visit in May when the rapeseed is in bloom! Your photos are incredible… I hope all is well with you and your family, and I look forward to recipes in upcoming posts!
Ron says
David – we’re well over this way and hope the same is true with you and Mark. The month of May can be a wonderful month to visit, but it can also be rainy and cold. We had snow flurries over the weekend. Not to worry, we’re going to be back to normal temps by tomorrow. Thanks for all the kind words and you guys take care…
Tandy | Lavender and Lime says
I would love the Viking experience. I had booked a trip to Europe, including a stop in Sweden for my cousins for this month. Sadly they had to cancel. Stay safe.
Ron says
It is a fun open-air museum to go visit for young and not so young. It’s so sad that the world seems to be on hold. It will be very interesting to see how the travel industry changes in the coming years. Here, summer home sales are booming as those who used to travel are now only wishing to a local escape. Take care down that way…
Kelly | Foodtasia says
Falsterbonäset is just beautiful! I can’t believe how pretty and blue the water is! I’ve always loved traveling, whether in real life or virtually through reading your posts! These days I’m quite desperate for a holiday, so I really appreciated the little holiday-in-my-mind I had when reading this post. My older kids loved watching Vikings so I’m sure they would love to see the Fotevikens museum!
Ron says
It is indeed Kelly and my favorite time to visit is in February as the beaches are absent of sun-seekers and the frozen sand crunches under your feet. We’ve been doing some virtual tours of Europe and have an Italian virtual cooking class booked for next weekend. Thanks for stopping by and take care…
Laura says
I’ve never heard of this part of Sweden, Ron! What a beautiful area. It looks so relaxing and full of awesome things to do! I’ve been to my share of horse shows, as my daughter rode in the local hunter-jumper circuit here through high school. I learned just how skilled one must be to control a huge animal and ask it to do all that it needs to. I love the look of the outdoor museum, too. So interesting! can’t wait for the next installment!
Ron says
Hi Laura, it is a beautiful area. Having moved here from the Kentucky horse country I know those horse shows can be intense. Hunter-jumper is my favorite competition in the equestrian world. I never jumped, but I did spend a lot of time in the saddle and mucking the stable. The Viking museum is a great experience. Maybe we’ll do a post one day. Thanks for taking the time to comment and stay safe over your way.
Pam says
Great that you’re back, Ron! Awesome, love it, “Sweden’s Southern Playground!” How beautiful! Great fabulous beaches and those colorful beach huts. What a place to visit, you’re very lucky to live near there. And then there’s the horse show, sure reminds me of living in Louisville! 😊 You’ve got it all! And gorgeous Chloe too!!!
Ron says
Thanks, Pam! You know the Southern part of Skåne is very much horse country, but not as much thoroughbred as in KY. We are famous here for breeding trotters and pacers for harness racing. Harness racing is a huge sport in Sweden and Denmark as well as other countries in the area. It is kind of like living in Kentucky, but without the bourbon or hot browns. Thanks for taking the time to have a read…
sherry says
hi Ron
great to see you back with a post. this looks like a wonderful part of sweden. we have been to sweden for about an hour:) We caught the ferry over from Denmark, stayed for a bit and caught the ferry back. It was fabulous fun. We have been to a viking museum in Roskilde, which was a wonderful experience. seeing that viking boat brought up from the harbour, and preserved there was magical. Hope you’re keeping well during covid. won’t it be wonderful to get back to a semblance of normal one day?
cheers
sherry x
Ron says
Great to be back Sherry. Oh boy, do I remember the ferries. They don’t run anymore since the completion of the Öresund bridge between Sweden and Denmark. We’ve not been to Roskilde. We had planned on making a Denmark road trip this summer through the country, but things being as they are (the border is loved for leisure travel between Sweden and Denmark) we will postpone till a later time. We’re well here and beginning to enjoy our summer self-isolating in the garden. It sure would be nice to have some normality…
Krista R Bjorn says
What a beautiful place! I’d be fascinated by the Fotevikens museum. 🙂 What are the little colourful huts for?
Ron says
Thanks Krista. You ask a very good question. The short answer is that they are used to change into and out of ones swimming attire. But, they have a bit of history and more uses, but I’ll get into more detail in the next post.
Judi Graber says
There is definitely something for everyone – the beach, golf, good food and of course the stunning landscape. I could sure use a change in scenery right now! Glad you had a chance for some fun before the “lockdown”
Ron says
Hi Judi – It was right down to the wire if we’d go or not. In the end, there were no reported cases in the area and it was the off-season so it was safe. Thanks for the comment…
angiesrecipes says
The landscape is so beautiful! Hopefully one day I get to visit Sweden. I look forward to the food part :-)) Thanks for visiting my blog, Ron.
Ron says
Hi Angie and thanks for visiting my blog as well. We’ll be posting the next installment this coming Friday if all go as planned. Take care…
Neil says
What a stunning area Ron! I’m so glad you were able to get out and experience it before the lockdown. We’re itching to get out of our homes here and back up into the Scottish hills. Thanks for this inspiration and stay safe over there!
Ron says
Thank Neil, it was indeed a fine outing. However, nothing is planned in the near future. Ah, a hike in the Scottish hills sounds great. Thanks for having a read…
Shannon says
What a beautiful and charming place, Ron! I’ve officially put Maklappen on the top of my places to visit! And those beaches at Skanör-Falsterbo are absolutely STUNNING. Seriously, picture book perfect. I am so excited to here about the inn you and Eva recommend, it’s breathtaking. And amazing food too?!!! I’m already a fan! Looks like the perfect adventure. Those rapeseed blossoms have already made my day as well, how utterly gorgeous!
Ron says
Hi Shannon, I know you guys would enjoy the area as well as the inn. The food was amazing as you’ll see in the next installment. Alas, the rapeseed blossoms have left for another year. They usually last a couple of weeks but this year their bloom was early and shorter. Glad to hear you enjoyed the post and thanks for stopping by.
mjskitchen says
What an enjoyable post! I loved the links and the video was awesome. Seeing snow on a beach has always amazed me and it looked particularly beautiful on this beach with the near white sand. A lovely area!!! It’s easy to see how it has become a wildlife refuge with the limited amount of foot traffic, the habitat possibilities and the space. I love visiting places like that. Yes, I do remember last year’s rapeseed blossoms. Thanks for sharing more pictures of them. They are just gorgeous.
Ron says
Thanks, MJ. It is a lovely beach area, especially in the winter when it’s uncrowded and the sand is frozen and crunches underfoot. Glad to hear you enjoyed the rapeseed images. Thanks for stopping by.
Ciao Chow Linda says
The photo of the rapeseed really drew me in. I love to pick them in the wild before they flower. They are wonderful greens to eat, boiled for a bit, then cooked in olive oil, garlic and hot pepper flakes. This year, I pressed some of the flower stalks dry and used them to decorate a cake. The Swedish
landscape looks beautiful but I do wonder if it gets warm enough to swim in the summer.
Ron says
Linda, like you the rapeseed fields draw me in as well. I’ve never tried cooking up the greens, I’ll have to give that a try. Great idea on drying flower and stalk as well. One of the draws of the beaches in that area is that they are shallow, thus the water temps are warmer. The water warms to the high 60s F or around 20 C in the shallows during the summer. Still a bit chilly, but fun to swim in.
Karen (Back Road Journal) says
You’ve been missed but I can see it was for a beautiful holiday before the shutdown. Love the photos of the rapeseed blossoms. When I first started my blog, my header was of them in bloom in France.
Ron says
Thanks Karen, I missed being away from the blog, but I’m enjoying being back. We would love to see the bloom in France as we’ve heard it’s spectacular as well…
Jas @ All that's Jas says
Welcome back, I’ve missed your stories! I also agree with Chloe – where’s the food? Ha!
That scenery is idylic and nothing short of spectacular!